I learned this trick twenty five years ago photographing a Gas Station, many of you may already know of it as well. It helped make a rather ugly industrial image into ‘architectural illustration’. When executed correctly this technique will help your images become uniquely yours. This little trick is as good today as it was in 1930’s when one Samuel H. Gottscho took his view camera to the roof of a New York office building for a night scene of the city. He made two time exposures. The first one was made at dusk to record the outlines and general details of the buildings against the fading light of the sky. He then capped the open lens and waited for darkness. When the lights went on in the office buildings, store windows, and streets, he made a second exposure, a brief one to expose only for those lights. The result was a beautifully illuminated view of the New York skyline with the city’s architecture standing out in impressive relief. This famous image was sold and resold for many years and was quite rewarding for Mr. Gottscho.

This same technique may be used in many other outdoor night situations. Possibilities include lighted bridges and highways, landscapes, homes and apartments to name just a few applications. The trick is to develop your own technique and style.

Portland, Oregon 'Dusk - Night'

Here’s How:

This trick takes two visits to the scene you want to photograph. The first setup is just to test your film and your exposure. Find the scene you want to photograph and compose the image you want to make. If you already own a 35mm camera (That allows for double exposures) with a 'bulb' or 'B' time exposure setting, a cable release and a tripod you have the basic equipment for success. If you have a digital camera you can still use this to get started, but you may find that your batteries do not last very long as long exposures and lower night time temperatures may affect their performance. Older, clockwork driven cameras are ideal for working at night and can often be bought used at reasonable prices.

Note: Make appropriate adjustments when using digital cameras.
To start. Load your camera with transparency (slide) film in the range 200-400 ASA- ISO, I don't recommend color print film as you may find your local processing lab will spoil your prints by automatically 'correcting' the interesting night time colors so that your work looks like it was taken in the day. B&W film is excellent for this trick if your processing and printing your own.

As for the exposure, all night exposures (i.e. those not made in the direct glare of electric light) are really the result of experiment and experience. Light meters (whether in camera or separate hand held professional models) cannot cope with truly low light and the way film sensitivity changes in long exposures (this is called the films reciprocity factor). The key here is, at least to begin with, is to stick exclusively with one film you find works well with your type of images. Also make notes of the exposure times and lens apertures used to make each test photograph. When the film returns from being processed, look at the results and make a note of which exposures worked and which did not. For your second and final visit to the scene you will have a better understanding of how your film will react. For now, start your testing by shooting the ‘dusk’ portion of your subject. To start with, set your lens to f11 and take a wide variety of exposure times of this low light ‘dusk’ scene. For my own work, with the sun down over the horizon but still light in the sky, I give a series of exposures of 1/30, 1/15, 1/8, quarter and half second at f11 with ASA 200 film. This can vary widely depending on the effect I want. Over time, you will work out the best technique and film exposure for what you want to say in your pictures and thus make your work truly personal.

Typical 'Dusk' Scene

After the ‘dust’ test is completed and without disturbing your camera, take a coffee break. A few accessories all night photographers should carry are: Thermos of hot coffee or tea, folding stool and a large umbrella. Watch your scene as the local lights begin to be turned on. These could be street lights, lighted signs, neon signs, cars with their lights on, light coming from windows or just moon light. Once the sky is dark and the lights are on it’s time for test two. I have listed a chart with some recommended starting exposures. All these times can vary with the type of night light you are photographing. Make detailed notes of all your exposure times.

Now when your slide film comes back from the lab or uploaded and viewed your digital shots, and after referring to your notes you will know exactly (or within a half stop of exposure) what settings to use on your final shot.

Return for your final shot, try to assure that all the lighting and weather conditions are about the same as during your test shots. You only have one chance to make this final image so take care in your work. Carefully set your camera up on the tripod, compose and lock the camera down. Wait for the right lighting conditions for the ‘dusk’ shot and make the correct exposure. Make sure you know how to work your camera’s double expose system, do not advance the film. Wait for the night sky and local lights to come on and make the second correct exposure on the same film frame.

Baybridge With San Francisco

Seattle By Moon Light

Your final image should be a beautiful ‘dusk - night’ shot of the scene you selected. The kind of shot that makes people ask "How was this done?". This trick is not limited to just fair weather, for even more dramatic effects try it in all kinds of foul weather as well. It’s a night photography technique that has survived the test of time. Good shooting and don’t forget the umbrella.