{"id":1398,"date":"2016-06-28T21:34:17","date_gmt":"2016-06-28T21:34:17","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/?p=1398"},"modified":"2016-11-25T16:32:31","modified_gmt":"2016-11-25T16:32:31","slug":"travel-in-the-chihuahuan-desert-a-nature-photographers-playground","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/travel-in-the-chihuahuan-desert-a-nature-photographers-playground\/","title":{"rendered":"The Chihuahuan Desert: A Nature Photographer’s Playground"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Photo
\u00a9 Gary Nored. All Rights Reserved. \u00a0 The Solitario as Seen from the Main Road ~ Big Bend Ranch State Park, Texas<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Chihuahuan Desert<\/strong> is… Remote, Exotic, and Largely Unknown. Encompassing over 200,000 square miles, it is the largest desert in North America. It stretches from deep within central Mexico to West Texas, southern New Mexico, and southeastern Arizona.<\/p>\n

It is one of the most biologically diverse arid regions on earth. Sheltered by large mountain ranges from other regions such as the Sonoran Desert, it is home to an extraordinary number of endemic species including Mexican prairie dogs, wild American bison, and pronghorn antelope.<\/p>\n

This area has been continuously inhabited since the end of the last ice age over 10,000 years ago. The first Spaniards came to the already long-established town of Presidio in 1535, 67 years before the first pilgrim ship left Europe. Yet today, it is one of the least-inhabited and least-visited regions of the U.S., its scenic grandeur seemingly untouched by man.<\/p>\n

\"Photo
Mammilaria-meiacantha (Nipple Cactus)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Photo
Cerro Castolo ~ Big Bend National Park<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Close-up
Opuntia-imbricata<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Close-up
Echinocereus-coccineus All photos: \u00a9 Gary Nored. All Rights Reserved.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Beauty Of The\u00a0Chihuahuan Desert<\/h2>\n

The Chihuahuan Desert\u2019s isolation keeps its popularity as a tourist attraction low. But the area\u2019s isolation is a great part of its charm and there are few other places in the U.S. where you can sit atop a cliff where only a handful of people have ever been and absorb a silence so absolute that your own breathing and heartbeat dominate the aural landscape.<\/p>\n

Such silence and solitude are priceless. The entire area is a photographer\u2019s paradise. You only need go out of your way to get here.<\/p>\n

Those who make the effort will be rewarded with scenery that is utterly unique. No other desert is as heavily covered with vegetation. Plants cover the llanos, the hillsides, and the mesa tops with a visual \u2018blanket\u2019 that makes the desert look uniquely \u201csoft.\u201d When it rains, the area becomes incredibly green.<\/p>\n

\"Photo
\u00a9 Gary Nored. All Rights Reserved. When rain comes to the dessert there is a flourish of green to delight the senses.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In winter, the grasses turn a golden brown and the entire landscape is painted in caramel colors.<\/p>\n

\"Photo
\u00a9 Gary Nored. All Rights Reserved. Winter Carmel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Texas hosts the three largest parks in the Chihuahuan Desert \u2013 the Guadalupe Mountains National Park, Big Bend National Park, and the Big Bend Ranch State Park.<\/p>\n

Your first visit should probably be to the Big Bend National Park. It is the most accessible and requires the least physical effort to explore.<\/p>\n

The park runs a small motel located atop the Chisos Mountains and there are other accommodations just outside the western entrance in the tiny villages of Study Butte (pronounced Stoodie Beaut) and Terlingua. Roughly 100 miles north of the park in the village of Marathon you\u2019ll find accommodations that range from the simple to downright luxurious.<\/p>\n

The national park has the largest number of short hikes that you can easily reach from paved roads. The park is beautifully designed. Every \u2018scenic overlook\u2019 and every small trail along the way offers wonderful opportunities for nature photographers.<\/p>\n

The Big Bend Ranch State Park is mostly accessible by vehicle though there are a few short hikes reachable from the main road. You\u2019ll need high-clearance 4WD as the roads are beyond primitive. There are bunkhouse facilities in the park with water and showers; you can also rent a room in the \u2018Big House,\u2019 which was the Sauceda Ranch headquarters before the area became a park.<\/p>\n

\"Photo
\u00a9 Gary Nored. All Rights Reserved. The Bunkhouse at Big Bend Ranch State Park<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Guadalupe Mountains National Park is mostly for the vigorous and physically fit. The trails are long, steep, and rugged but the cool montane and sub-alpine environments on the mountaintops make the climbs well worthwhile.<\/p>\n

Regardless of which park you choose, you\u2019ll find huge skies that are clear and sunny most of the year, soft-looking hillsides, rugged canyons, and wide open spaces.<\/p>\n

\"Photo
\u00a9 Gary Nored. All Rights Reserved. Tuff Canyon ~ Big Bend National Park<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In Big Bend National, be sure to visit the Lost Mine Trail and the Windows Trail for some of the most scenic mountain views in the park. For great canyon images, visit Santa Elena Canyon, Boquillas Canyon, and Tuff Canyon. Santa Elena is the most spectacular and popular of these three.<\/p>\n

At dawn its entrance is bathed in light like liquid gold, and the reliable water there makes it easier to get great shots. Tuff Canyon is easy to hike and not heavily visited. Hiking to the end takes you through 30 million years of geologic history, and the ever-present walls of tuff are eroded into strange exotic shapes that make for great images.<\/p>\n

Boquillas Canyon is located on the far eastern boundary of the park, conveniently near \u201cThe Village\u201d with its green, tree-covered campgrounds and the only showers in the park.<\/p>\n

If you stay at the village, be sure to hike the short scenic loop located at the southeastern corner of the campground.<\/p>\n

Plan on staying until after sunset, for once the sun starts going down you will not be able to drag yourself away! The vast limestone cliffs of the Sierra del Carmen to your east become brilliantly illuminated with a golden pink light that fills at least 145 degrees of your field of view. You will never forget this sight, and you will probably never take a better panorama.<\/p>\n

\"Photo
\u00a9 Gary Nored. All Rights Reserved. Sierra del Carmen ~ Big Bend National Park<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Photo<\/p>\n

Bofecillos Mountains
\nBig Bend Ranch State Park<\/p>\n

\"Photo<\/p>\n

The Flatirons of the Solitario
\nBig Bend Ranch State Park, Texas<\/p>\n

\"Photo
\nMcKittrick Canyon
\nGuadalupe Mountains National Park<\/p>\n

All above photos: \u00a9 Gary Nored. All Rights Reserved.<\/p>\n

At the Big Bend Ranch you will find a completely different view of the Chihuahuan Desert. The ranch is located in the Bofecillos Mountains \u2013 an area almost entirely volcanic in origin that carries the unique visual signature of volcanism.<\/p>\n

The mountains here are razor sharp. They are never tall enough to support montane environments so the essential desert quality is never absent. Hike down the Ojito Adentro trail to the waterfall and spring at the end to photograph riparian woodlands, Maidenhair Ferns, aquatic insects, and the birds that feed on them.<\/p>\n

Climb to the top of the Cinco Tinajas trail and scramble over to the farthest edges to photograph the \u201cTinajas,\u201d permanent pools of water trapped in impermeable rock.<\/p>\n

The Big Bend Ranch has some of the most stunning scenery in West Texas, but you\u2019ll have to drive to see it.<\/p>\n

Driving will take you to the most distinctive feature of the park, the famous Solitario. This enormous lacolith is circular and over 9 miles in diameter. The views from the south rim peer well into Mexico and are indescribably beautiful.<\/p>\n

Driving down Fresno Canyon will reward you with unparalleled views of the Flatirons, a ring of 1000 ft high triangular slabs of limestone which were tilted upwards while the Solitario formed.<\/p>\n

If at all possible, camp at least one night at any of the campsites in the canyon. Watching the Flatirons glow in the setting sun is never-to-be-forgotten experience.<\/p>\n

Save the Guadalupe Mountains for Fall, for in this park the famous McKittrick canyon protects huge orphaned stands of Houndstooth Maple, and like most maples, they turn glorious shades of red and yellow with the change of the season. The hike is about 6 miles and worth every step, for the trees grow mostly at the upper end of the canyon.<\/p>\n

A shorter hike to Devil\u2019s Den is equally spectacular but involves quite a bit of scrambling to get through. Check ahead of time to catch the trees at their best.<\/p>\n

Regardless of which park you choose, timing will determine the best photographic opportunities. Wildflower lovers should come in early spring \u2013 March through May \u2013 to see cacti in bloom.<\/p>\n

They\u2019re better in wet years, but you\u2019ll find cacti in bloom almost any year you visit. If annuals are your favorite flowers, visit in early summer, or wait for the annual monsoons which tend to arrive mid- to late-summer.<\/p>\n

Many desert plants are opportunistic bloomers so you\u2019ll want to arrive during or shortly after the rains. The monsoons often bring dramatic, violent storms \u2013 manna to photographic storm chasers.<\/p>\n

\"Photo
\u00a9 Gary Nored. All Rights Reserved. Storm at Sauceda Ranch Headquarters ~ Big Bend Ranch State Park, Texas<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Peace-loving landscape photographers should consider a winter trip. The winters here are relatively mild, and the dry vegetation creates visual effects you will find nowhere else in America.<\/p>\n

Regardless of where you go and when, remember that this is a desert. There is little to no water anywhere. Water is the most important thing in your life when you\u2019re in the desert. You must have water with you at all times! Carry several gallons with you in your car.<\/p>\n

If you\u2019re going to be out all day, carry as much as you can, and drink it. The standard rule of thumb for hot weather is one gallon per person per day. This standard is not over-generous. Remember, if you start to feel thirsty, you are already dehydrated. Please don\u2019t let that happen.<\/p>\n

\"Photo
\n\u00a9 Gary Nored. All Rights Reserved.<\/p>\n

No matter what time of the year you visit, always wear long trousers, long-sleeved shirts, wide-brimmed hats and sunglasses. As hot as it may feel walking around like this, it is nothing as hot as you\u2019ll be without it.<\/p>\n

Look at the people who live here. You will never see one lightly clothed. Wear heavy boots and get a pair of snake leggings if you will be hiking in tall grass. Snake bites are rare, and almost never fatal, but they are extremely painful and special treatment is expensive.<\/p>\n

If you\u2019re planning on backroad driving, I would suggest downloading \u201cRoads to Nowhere\u201d from the Texas Parks and Wildlife website. Read the book and follow all the safety precautions listed. Hopefully you won\u2019t need that extra spare tire or high-rise jack, but you\u2019ll regret not having them if you do.<\/p>\n

One other note of caution: the Chihuahuan Desert is addictive. The experiences you have here, and the images you take home will be unlike anything you\u2019ve ever had before, and you\u2019re going to want more, and more, and more \u2026<\/p>\n

by Gary Nored<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The Chihuahuan Desert is… Remote, Exotic, and Largely Unknown. Encompassing over 200,000 square miles, it is the largest desert in North America. 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