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One of the first questions upcoming photographers ask is, \u201cWhat kind of lenses should I get?\u201d The answer depends on the type of photography you plan to do. You\u2019ll probably try many kinds before you end your days, so it may be good to be prepared.<\/p>\n
When zoom lenses first came out, some weren\u2019t very good. Now they\u2019ve improved greatly, and most are worthy of consideration. They reduce the size and weight of your camera bag and the number of lenses you\u2019ll require, because they provide a nice range from wide angles to telephotos. You\u2019d need many non-zoom lenses to achieve the same versatility.<\/p>\n
I have a 28mm-80mm zoom and a 75mm-300mm zoom plus a 1.4 X telextender–which increases the focal length of these lenses, if needed. I also carry a fixed 500mm lens. This setup covers from 28mm to 700 mm, and it takes care of most of my photographic needs. Sometimes, I find myself lusting after a 20mm lens, but the situations in which I\u2019d actually need that lens are somewhat rare.<\/p>\n
The wide-angle lenses–20mm (and below) through 35mm–can be used when you\u2019re shooting in small places such as a room, or when you\u2019re attempting to capture great vistas outdoors such as open landscapes. But they can also be used to accentuate distances by bringing you up close to a feature such as a fence that runs off into the distance. Using a tripod, lower shutter speed, and aperture of f22 or f32, you can achieve great depth-of-field. (See figure 1 for an example that accentuates distance. The dock seems to stretch out when you use a wide-angle lens. Figure 3 is an example of a sweeping vista taken in by the wide-angle.) Note: The 20mm (and below) lenses will often provide what I call \u201ccreative distortions.\u201d You may or may not like this. It\u2019s simply another tool you may find useful.<\/p>\n
The 50mm to 100mm lenses are in the mid-range. I seldom use them, but they can be useful in portraits. If they\u2019re Macro-lenses (ones that focus closely), then they can also produce nice close-ups of flowers, etc. Figure 2 shows what a mid-range lens can do. It takes in a great deal of area–but not as much as a wide-angle.<\/p>\n
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The 120mm to 400mm telephoto lenses will allow you \u201creach out and touch someone\u201d or something. If you need to stand back to catch your photo, these will be your preferred lenses. For instance, when you\u2019re photographing wild animals, you may need to keep distance between you to get the shot. They often become frightened and leave if you move too close. The 400mm is probably a standard for nature photographers, although even longer lenses are being used. Seeing a huge 600mm lens on a nature photographer\u2019s camera is not unusual these days. Although the manufacturers have made these big lenses lighter and lighter, they\u2019re still bulky to lug around. (Figure 4 is a result of using a telephoto zoomed to 300mm.)<\/p>\n
I\u2019ve used my 500mm lens to take shots of the moon, and I can easily see lunar craters with it. This particular lens is a reflector lens, which is fairly short and light for a big lens and easy to carry around. However, it does have its drawbacks. It often picks up circular highlights in the background of a shot, such as water reflections or anything shiny. These highlights can either be disconcerting or ignored. On occasion, I thought the highlight added to a shot, but most of the time, I wish the little O\u2019s weren\u2019t in the image. The 500mm also has a fixed f8 aperture, which means you have no control over that part of the shot. You have to use film speeds and camera speed to compensate.<\/p>\n
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I suggest you shop carefully and purchase the very best lens you can afford. While you can get acceptable photos using the lower priced lenses with care, you\u2019ll be ahead of the game if you have some of the excellent pieces of glass available on the market. However, for the economy-minded, zooms are the way to go. They cover a greater focal range with fewer lenses, which means less clutter and less weight. The fewer times you have to change a lens, the less wear-and-tear on your equipment, and the faster you can shoot.<\/p>\n
Another good investment is a shade cover to keep sun from causing lens flare in your photo. A lot of the newer lenses come with a built-in or attachable lens cover. If yours doesn\u2019t include one, check out the correct size (filter size) for your lens and see about obtaining a cover.<\/p>\n
Finally, the longer the lens, the more you need a good tripod. Get one that\u2019s sturdy enough not to wiggle when it has a big lens on it. You may wish to use a counter weight of some kind to help hold the tripod steady. Even draping your camera bag over part of the tripod will help. The larger (longer) the lens, the more likely it is to wobble from the slightest touch. A wobble means blurred photos.<\/p>\n
So, if you\u2019re thinking about adding or replacing lenses, keep the above information in mind when making your selection. You\u2019ll need to take your time, and let practice and experience be your guide as to the lens you\u2019ll need. Happy picture taking!<\/p>\n
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by Willis T. Bird<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"