{"id":4325,"date":"2016-07-14T14:16:03","date_gmt":"2016-07-14T14:16:03","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/?p=4325"},"modified":"2016-10-13T16:48:51","modified_gmt":"2016-10-13T16:48:51","slug":"converting-a-color-image-to-bw-in-photoshop-elements-extra-an-alternative-burning-and-dodging-tool","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/converting-a-color-image-to-bw-in-photoshop-elements-extra-an-alternative-burning-and-dodging-tool\/","title":{"rendered":"Converting a Color Image to BW in Photoshop Elements Extra: An alternative burning and dodging tool."},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Part 2.<\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><\/body><\/p>\n<p><\/html><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\">Now let&#8217;s do some burning and dodging. This is a much simpler method than we<br \/>\ndiscussed in previous tutorials, but just as effective. After you try this, try<br \/>\nthe old way as well. See which you like the best. Easier isn&#8217;t always better.<\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\">While the <i>MIDDLE<\/i> <b>Hue\/Saturation Adjustment Layer<\/b> is selected, click on<br \/>\nthe <b>&quot;New Layer&quot;<\/b> icon. This should put a new blank layer between the two<br \/>\nexisting Adjustment Layers. Change the <b>Blend Mode<\/b> of this new layer to <b><br \/>\n&quot;Overlay.&quot;<\/b> (I have changed the name of this layer to &quot;darken<br \/>\nsky&quot;.)<\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" border=\"0\" src=\"http:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/nov2006\/mfulks6.jpg\" width=\"284\" height=\"250\"><\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\">Next make sure the default colors (1, see below) are set to black as the<br \/>\nforeground and white as the background as shown below. Next click on the <b><br \/>\nGradient Tool <\/b>(2). In the tool <b>Options<\/b> bar at the top, select the <b><br \/>\nBlack to Transparent<\/b> option (3) and select the <b>Linear<\/b> gradient<br \/>\noption. (4)<\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" border=\"0\" src=\"http:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/nov2006\/mfulks10.jpg\" width=\"290\" height=\"528\"><\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\">Placing the cursor at the top of your image, drag straight down. (1) This should<br \/>\ncreate an effect of a gradual burn from top to bottom. (2) You can <b>change the<br \/>\nopacity <\/b>of this layer if you feel you over did it. (3)&nbsp; If you need to increase<br \/>\nthe effect, <b>make a copy<\/b> of this layer above this one.<\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\"><br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" border=\"0\" src=\"http:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/nov2006\/mfulks11.jpg\" width=\"415\" height=\"305\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" border=\"0\" src=\"http:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/nov2006\/mfulks8.jpg\" width=\"283\" height=\"254\"><\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\">As you can see we have made the sky darker and let the clouds show through<br \/>\nmore. <i>(This layer could also be used to do an edge burn instead of just<br \/>\nburning the sky. Can you guess how? The answer is at the end of this article)<\/i><\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\">Next we are going to create a nondestructive layer for our burning and<br \/>\ndodging, so we are not working on the actual image. While holding the <b><br \/>\nAlt <\/b>key down click on the <b>New Layer<\/b> icon, You will get the dialog box<br \/>\nbelow. Change the <b>Mode<\/b> to <b>Softlight <\/b>as shown and check the <b><br \/>\n&quot;Fill with Soft-Light-Neutral color&#8230;&quot; <\/b>box and the click OK.<\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" border=\"0\" src=\"http:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/nov2006\/index.7.jpg\" width=\"407\" height=\"142\"><\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\">Now you will paint into this new layer. Choose the <b>Brush <\/b>tool. Make sure the <b><br \/>\nOpacity<\/b> in the tool <b>Option Bar<\/b> at the top of the screen is set low to<br \/>\nsomething like 15%.&nbsp; Now when you paint in this layer with <b>black<\/b>, you will<br \/>\n<b>darken<\/b> the image in the areas you paint. Conversely, if you paint with <b>white<\/b>,<br \/>\nyou will <b>lighten<\/b> the areas in those areas. Give it a try now and see.<br \/>\nRemember to change the <b>Opacity <\/b>on the<b> Option Bar<\/b> at the top of the<br \/>\nscreen if you need more or less effect.<\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">\n<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" border=\"0\" src=\"http:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/nov2006\/mfulks16.jpg\" width=\"584\" height=\"428\"><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\">Here is how my image looks after I am done working on<br \/>\nit. Check out<br \/>\nthe icon in this layer to see where I painted black and white strokes. <\/font> <\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\"><br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" border=\"0\" src=\"http:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/nov2006\/mfulks17.jpg\" width=\"581\" height=\"291\"><\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">While this is an effective tool for burning and dodging,<br \/>\nand also pretty simple, many of my students prefer the method described in my<br \/>\nprevious tutorial &lt;<a href=\"http:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/feb2006\/mfulks2_2006_2.shtml\">http:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/feb2006\/mfulks2_2006_2.shtml<\/a>&gt;<br \/>\nbecause of the way it affects the colors as well. On color images you may want<br \/>\nto try both to see which one you like best.<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\">Lastly, when you are satisfied, you may want to add a final Level Adjustment<br \/>\nLayer to the top of the stack to make sure your tonal range contains whites and<br \/>\nblacks.<\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" border=\"0\" src=\"http:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/nov2006\/mfulks18.jpg\" width=\"286\" height=\"343\"><\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\">If you like, try adding some color back into your image. Make a duplicate of<br \/>\nyour original background layer and drag it to the top of the layers stack.<\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" border=\"0\" src=\"http:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/nov2006\/mfulks19.jpg\" width=\"284\" height=\"386\"><\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\">Pull down the <b>Blending Mode<\/b><br \/>\nmenu and change the blending mode to either <b>&quot;Color&quot;<\/b>, <b>&quot;Overlay&quot;<\/b>, or<br \/>\n<b>&quot;Hard Light&quot;<\/b> and see what each one does. Play with the<b> &quot;Opacity<br \/>\nSlider&quot;<\/b> to change how much the mode affects your picture. You probably<br \/>\nwill need to take it down to around 50% to keep the effect from being too<br \/>\noverwhelming. But as you will see, each one does something a little different.<\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">Here&#8217;s the original:<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\"><br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" border=\"0\" src=\"http:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/nov2006\/mfulks6.gif\" width=\"374\" height=\"249\"><\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\">Here&#8217;s what my final black and white and &quot;hand tinted&quot; editions look like.<\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\"><br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" border=\"0\" src=\"http:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/nov2006\/mfulks16.gif\" width=\"370\" height=\"239\">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\"><br \/>\n&nbsp;<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" border=\"0\" src=\"http:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/nov2006\/mfulks15.jpg\" width=\"368\" height=\"239\"><\/font><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoBodyText\"><font face=\"Georgia\">That&#8217;s it! Try it on more of your images to get the hang of it.<\/font><\/p>\n<p><\/body><\/p>\n<p><\/html><\/p>\n<p>A tutorial by Michael Fulks<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<div class=\"mh-excerpt\"><p>Part 2. &nbsp; Now let&#8217;s do some burning and dodging. This is a much simpler method than we discussed in previous tutorials, but just as effective. After you try this, <a class=\"mh-excerpt-more\" href=\"https:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/converting-a-color-image-to-bw-in-photoshop-elements-extra-an-alternative-burning-and-dodging-tool\/\" title=\"Converting a Color Image to BW in Photoshop Elements Extra: An alternative burning and dodging tool.\">[read more]<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":4326,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[5],"tags":[198],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v19.13 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Converting a Color Image to BW in Photoshop Elements Extra: An alternative burning and dodging tool. - Apogee Photo Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.apogeephoto.com\/converting-a-color-image-to-bw-in-photoshop-elements-extra-an-alternative-burning-and-dodging-tool\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Converting a Color Image to BW in Photoshop Elements Extra: An alternative burning and dodging tool. - Apogee Photo Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Part 2. &nbsp; Now let&#8217;s do some burning and dodging. 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This is a much simpler method than we discussed in previous tutorials, but just as effective. 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